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- Soaps, Shaving, Soap Making
The Art & Secrets of Soap Making ✨

The production of shaving soaps is one of the most fascinating arts of traditional grooming. Behind every soap bar or refill bowl, there are decades-old techniques, small details in the process, and recipes passed down from generation to generation. From artisanal workshops to large historic companies, the production of a quality shaving soap is the result of both science and creative craftsmanship. ✔️
In this article, we'll discover the most widespread manufacturing methods, such as hot process, cold process, the melt & pour technique, and the famous triple milling — a process that only a few soap makers have mastered. Below you'll find detailed explanations, experiences from the barbershop, real brand examples, and selected products to help you understand in depth why a good shaving soap makes the difference in your experience. ✨
The most well-known shaving soap manufacturing methods
The shaving soaps we find on the market are not all the same. Each manufacturing method gives a completely different character to the final product — from the texture and hardness, to the ease with which it creates lather. Basically, there are four production pillars: hot process, cold process, melt & pour, and the famous triple milling. ✔️
Each technique has its history, requirements, curing time, and its own little secrets. For example, the artisan producer working with small batches will prefer cold process for oil control, while a large company might choose triple milling for perfect uniformity and longevity. Here at HairMaker, with so many different soaps we test daily, I can tell you that the production method directly affects the customer experience — from the feel on the skin to the blade that glides more comfortably.
In this article, we'll look in detail at how each technique works, which companies use it, what the advantages and disadvantages are; and of course, which category suits different skin and beard types. This way, you'll know what you're really buying and what to expect in terms of lather quality, longevity, and scent.
Hot Process – Fast production, intense character
The hot process method is a traditional yet practical technique where ingredients are "cooked" with controlled heat. This accelerates saponification and allows the producer to see the result immediately. Usually, the soap needs only a few hours to complete and about a week to "settle." The texture is rougher, something that many traditional enthusiasts appreciate, as it gives a more rustic look and feel.
At HairMaker, we've seen quite a few hot-process soaps do impressive work with glide and slickness. They produce a "heavy" lather, ideal for the first shaving pass. The heat allows the addition of sensitive ingredients at the end, without alteration, which is why we often find intense fragrances in these soaps. ✔️
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Cold Process – The most natural production method
The cold process technique is particularly popular among small artisanal producers who want to maintain the quality and character of natural oils. Unlike hot process, here heat is not used for saponification but only to melt solid oils before mixing with the base. The actual reaction happens "on its own," thanks to the natural exothermic process.
The result is soaps with a more uniform appearance, smooth texture, and often a more "gentle" fragrance. The curing time is longer — several weeks — and this is why many artisan brands don't produce large quantities. ✔️ Ladies and gentlemen with sensitive skin often prefer cold process soaps.
At HairMaker, we've tried many artisan options where the cold-process technique gives an incredibly "silky" lather. It works ideally for second and third passes, thanks to the stability and softness it leaves on the skin. It's the type of soap appreciated by customers seeking quality and naturalness without exaggeration.
Melt & Pour – The most practical and flexible approach
The melt & pour method is perhaps the most practical and beginner-friendly technique for making shaving soaps, but is also used by professionals who want stability, precision, and speed. Essentially, the soap maker doesn't start from scratch; instead, they use a ready-made base that has already gone through the saponification process in an industrial environment. This base melts at low temperature, is mixed with fragrances, colors, or enhancing ingredients, and then poured into molds.
The great advantage of this method is absolute control over the final result without the risk of errors in the chemical reaction. For the hobbyist, this means creativity without stress. For the professional, it means consistency, less production time, and the ability for larger-scale production without compromising quality. ✔️ The base melts uniformly, allowing the addition of fragrances that are often lost in high-temperature processes.
Melt & pour soaps show excellent behavior in brush "loading." They create lather quickly, without a large learning curve, which is why they're often recommended to new traditional shaving users. Nevertheless, this doesn't mean they're "inferior" to artisan creations; on the contrary, the stability of the base makes the process predictable and the result often impressively creamy.
If someone wants soaps with impressive colors, intense fragrances, and modern aesthetics, melt & pour is the ideal choice. The method also allows layering and the creation of multiple layers, something we often find in premium brands that want their product not only to perform excellently but also to stand out visually.
What users who have tried them say
«The hot process gave a very dense lather and consistent results on every pass.»
— Marios K.
(Skin: normal – no irritations)
«With cold process, my skin felt calmer and without irritations after shaving.»
— Stefanos L.
(Skin: sensitive – frequent redness)
«Triple-milled soaps last impressively long and provide consistent, clean lather.»
— Dimitris Ch.
(Skin: oily – needs cleanliness)
«Melt & pour soaps are pleasant, with subtle scent and easy handling in daily use.»
— Antonis R.
(Skin: combination – needs balance)
Triple Milling – The ultimate method for density & longevity
The triple milling method is considered by many the "golden peak" of shaving soap production. It starts from an already finished soap, which passes three times between heavy steel rollers. This process removes excess air and water, creating a much more compact mass with uniform texture. The final product is harder, with exceptional longevity and intense brush behavior, as the lower moisture content allows the production of a rich, stable lather with less quantity.
Brands like Saponificio Varesino, Tabac, and Mitchell's Wool Fat are classic examples that have invested years of know-how in this method. In the barbershop, triple-milled soaps stand out from the first use. The brush loads more "dry," but as soon as water is added, a creamy, velvety consistency is activated that offers flawless glide and protection. What impresses customers is the feeling that the soap never runs out; one bar can last much longer than any other category.
Another important detail is that the aromatic notes diffuse uniformly in the mass, giving a consistent character from first to last use. ✔️ For those seeking a premium experience, triple-milled soaps are often the first recommendation. Yes, they require a bit more loading time, but the lather quality and lifespan fully compensate for this particularity.
Which method is suitable for you? Overall assessment
With so many different manufacturing methods, many users wonder which is the ideal choice. The truth is that each technique covers different needs and different user profiles. Hot process soaps are ideal for those who love a rich, "heavy" lather and want a more intense olfactory experience, as fragrances are added at the end of the process and maintain their strength. On the other hand, cold process works wonderfully for sensitive skin, offering a gentle composition and silky feel, ideal for frequent shaving.
The melt & pour technique appeals to both beginners and creative users who want intense fragrances, visual effects, and consistent results without long waiting times. In contrast, triple-milled soaps are a premium choice for those who want maximum longevity, rich lather, and top uniformity; it's the category that stands out among the most demanding traditional shaving enthusiasts.
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Overall, the choice depends on what the user values most: naturalness, speed, longevity, or luxury. ✔️ What's worth remembering is that the manufacturing method is not just a technical detail; it's the factor that determines lather quality, blade behavior, and ultimately, the shaving experience. That's why those who try different categories gradually discover which suits their lifestyle and needs.
Comparative Table of Shaving Soap Manufacturing Methods
Hot Process
- Fast production (hours).
- Addition of ingredients at the end.
- Rough soap texture.
- Ideal for small producers.
- Shorter drying time.
- Consistent results with fewer errors.
Cold Process
- Slow production (days).
- More natural process.
- Smooth soap texture.
- Customizable with high-quality oils.
- Requires weeks of curing.
- Gives more "artisanal" result.
Melt & Pour
- Ready bases melt & mix.
- Fast production.
- Less control over recipe.
- Easy for beginners.
- Wide variety of fragrances.
- Ideal for custom small batches.
Triple Milling
- Passes through steel rollers.
- Removes air & moisture.
- Very dense & durable soap.
- Top longevity.
- Extremely homogeneous texture.
- Premium category (e.g., Saponificio Varesino).
Hot Tips for Better Shaving Soap Performance
Small details can completely change the lather quality and the feel on the skin. Here are the most practical tips we often share at the barbershop — simple steps that transform the shaving experience. ✔️
- ✔️ **Preheat the brush** in hot water for 1 minute: activates the soap faster.
- ✔️ **Start with less water** and add gradually — this way you'll reach ideal density.
- ✔️ **Make 20–30 circular motions** on the soap until it becomes "paste."
- ✔️ **Build the lather on your face** for better hydration and hair softening.
- ✔️ **For hard water** add 1–2 drops of glycerin: gives creamier texture.
- ✔️ **Avoid excessive water** — makes lather foamy but thin.
- ✔️ **Rinse the soap after use** so it doesn't soften too much in the bowl.
- ✔️ **Let it dry well**: significantly increases lifespan.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

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Giannis – Owner of HairMania Greece & Founder of HairMaker.Gr
Professional hairdresser with 25 years of experience in hair, beards, and traditional shaving. Creator of HairMaker.Gr and active barber on the HairMania Greece team.
All articles are written from real barbershop experience, product testing, and customer feedback I see daily in the chair.
For grooming questions, email info@hairmaker.gr.
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@hairmakergr | @hairmaniagr
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Reviewed and edited by Giannis – Professional hairdresser with 25 years of experience
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