How to Combine Eyeshadows According to Your Eye Shape

✨ "The right colors become magical when placed in the right spot."

How to combine eyeshadows according to your eye shape

Introduction ✔️

The right eye look doesn't just depend on how good your eyeshadows are, but on how well they match your eye shape. Each eye "demands" different placement — some corners need lifting movements, others require depth in the crease, while some look stunning when we emphasize the lower lash line. In this guide, I'll show you step-by-step how to choose colors, techniques, and symmetries so that eye makeup works with your natural shape, not against it. ✨

As a professional who has worked with dozens of different eyes — almond, downturned, monolid, deep-set — I can confirm that small changes in placement completely transform the entire look. You'll see in detail how to enhance each feature, how to avoid common blending mistakes, and how to properly apply techniques like lifted outer corner, spot-highlight, and structured crease.

At the end, you'll also find smart tips for choosing primer, how cool and warm shadows "bind" together, and which products work best on oily eyelids. Ready to learn how to make your eyeshadows work exactly in favor of your eye shape? Let's go! ✔️

Almond Eyes ✔️

Almond eyes are considered the most "versatile" shape in eye makeup because they embrace almost every technique. They already have a natural lift that makes the gaze bright, lively, and balanced — all that's needed is proper emphasis. In this block, we'll see **the most effective movements** for blending, depth, and brightness specifically for this shape. ✨

Why almond eyes are the "ideal canvas"

  • ✔️ Natural symmetry that allows clean lines
  • ✔️ Even lid that easily "holds" shadows
  • ✔️ Enough space for glam looks & cut crease
  • ✔️ Suits matte, shimmer, and satin textures

Basic 3-Step Blending Routine

For shadows to "work" properly on almond eyes, a simple 3-step blending is recommended:

  1. Transition shade in the crease ✔️ Shade 1–2 tones darker than skin ✔️ Windshield wiper motions
  2. Dark shade on the outer corner ✔️ Small circular motions ✔️ Work outward, not too high
  3. Light on the center of the lid ✔️ Shimmer or satin for opening ✔️ Press gently with a flat brush

The ideal shape: Soft V

The soft V is one of the best techniques for this particular eye. Place the dark shadow:

  • ✔️ On the lash line
  • ✔️ On the outer corner
  • ✔️ Slightly upward & outward

This gives depth without distorting the eye's natural shape, while "lifting" the gaze without exaggeration.

If you want a more glam result

The almond eye is the only one that exceptionally supports a **clean cut crease**:

  • ✔️ Light base on the lid
  • ✔️ Dark shadow in the crease for contrast
  • ✔️ Clean "cut" of the line with concealer

The result is clean, bright, and ideal for evening makeup without heaviness.

Lower lashes: Small detail — huge difference

  • ✔️ Thin shading below the eye for balance
  • ⚠️ No intense, thick lines on the inner corner
  • ✔️ Prefer matte textures for a cleaner look

Eyeliner: Thin and targeted

Eyeliner on almond eyes should work complementarily — not dominate.

  • ✔️ Thin line for natural intensity
  • ✔️ Small wing that follows the natural shape
  • ✔️ Ideal for "clean" everyday look

Downturned Eyes – How to lift them with shadow ✔️

Downturned eyes have a characteristic downward slope at their outer corner. This often gives a more "sad" or tired appearance to the gaze — but with proper shading, you can create an impressive **lifting effect** without any effort. ✨ In this block, we'll see the smartest tricks for a lifted, bright, and more "alive" eye.

What are the characteristics?

  • ✔️ The outer corner slopes downward
  • ✔️ The eye appears more "elongated" horizontally
  • ✔️ Shadow in the outer area easily "disappears"
  • ⚠️ Improper placement can emphasize the slope

The No.1 trick: Lifting placement

The biggest trap for this shape is the wrong shadow direction. We want to optically "pull" the eye upward, not follow its natural curve.

  • ✔️ Place shadow higher than the natural crease
  • ✔️ Work upward – not outward
  • ✔️ Aim for a 45° angle for immediate lifting
  • ✔️ Choose matte textures for a clean shape

The correct application sequence

  1. Light on the inner corner ✔️ Opens the gaze and draws attention upward.
  2. Transition shade in the high crease ✔️ Creates an illusion of lift.
  3. Dark shadow in an "inverted V" ✔️ The outer corner is worked diagonally upward, not outward.

"Reverse Wing" Technique

A small hack that works perfectly on downturned eyes is the **reverse wing**: instead of directing the eyeliner downward (as often happens naturally), you pull it slightly upward, like a "strap". The result? Immediate lifting without looking excessive. ✔️

  • ✔️ Start with a thin line
  • ✔️ Lift 2–3 mm above the natural ending
  • ✔️ Don't thicken the line too much
  • ⚠️ Avoid intense eyeliner on the lower lid

What to avoid

  • ⚠️ Shimmer on the outer corner – pulls the eye downward
  • ⚠️ Dark shadows in low placement
  • ⚠️ Flat horizontal movements without upward direction
  • ⚠️ Heavy lower eyeliner — weighs down the eye

With a few correct movements, downturned eyes are completely transformed: they appear lighter, brighter, and more youthful, without losing their romantic character. ✨

✨ Small change in placement — huge change in gaze!

The right tools elevate your technique — not the other way around. ✔️ Check out the products that give cleaner blending and better lift to your look:

Hooded Eyes – How to enhance "hidden" lids ✔️

Hooded eyes have a distinctive characteristic: the mobile lid "disappears" when the eye is open. This makes blending more difficult, but the technique that works properly creates the most impressive, smoky, and sensual result. In this block, you'll see **how to win back the lost space** and how to make the eye appear more open and bright. ✨

✔️ Rule #1: Work above the natural crease. ✔️ Rule #2: Movements must be upward. ✔️ Rule #3: Prefer matte shadows for structure.

1. The fake crease

To "lift" the lid, create a fake crease slightly above the natural one. This is where the entire shape begins:

  • ✔️ Use matte shadow 2–3 tones darker
  • ✔️ Work with a small blending brush for precision
  • ✔️ Never shimmer on the high point (lowers the lid)

2. "Half Spotlight" Technique

Because the lid isn't visible, instead of a full spotlight, use a half spotlight on the central 1/3 of the lid:

  • ✔️ Light only in the center
  • ✔️ Matte shadow on the edges
  • ✔️ Gentle intensity — not too intense shimmer

3. Eyeliner without "closing" the eye

The key for hooded eyes is a wing that remains visible when the eye is open. Mini tips:

  • ✔️ Wing upward, not outward
  • ✔️ Thin line — no thickness in the center
  • ⚠️ Don't connect the upper with the lower line

With these steps, hooded eyes stop appearing heavy and gain a more lifted, clean, and well-shaped look — ideal for everyday wear and evening glam. ✨

Round Eyes – How to make them more "elongated" ✔️

Round eyes have a cute, bright, and youthful appearance. They are naturally open, which means they easily draw attention. The goal, however, is usually to gain a bit more "shape" and elongation so they appear more balanced and striking. In this block, you'll see how you can transform the round eye look without losing its freshness. ✨

✔️ Goal: to create optical "elongation".
✔️ How? with proper shading on the sides and subtle angles.
✔️ What to avoid: excessive light in the center (makes them rounder).

1. Side intensity

To give a more "elongated" result, work dark shadow on the eye's edges and less in the center:

  • ✔️ Matte brown or purple shades on the outer corner
  • ✔️ Movements outward — not upward
  • ✔️ Avoid bright shimmer in the center

2. Soft elongated crease

The round eye needs a more "stretched" crease. Mini guide:

  • ✔️ Start from the middle of the eye
  • ✔️ Pull the shadow diagonally outward (not upward)
  • ✔️ Work with a thin brush for clarity

3. Eyeliner for a more "almond" result

Here the "elongated liner" technique shines. The secret?

  • ✔️ Start thin in the middle of the lid
  • ✔️ Thicken it toward the outer edge
  • ✔️ Wing in a straight line, not upward
  • ⚠️ Don't place eyeliner on the lower lid — makes the eye rounder

With these techniques, the round eye gains a more refined, almond result, without losing its natural light. Ideal for day-to-night looks and glam appearances. ✔️

Monolid Eyes – The right technique for a "built" gaze ✔️

Monolid eyes have a clean, flat surface without a visible crease. This makes them unique — but also demanding in blending, because shadow tends to "sit" flat without structure. With the right techniques though, monolid eyes can gain intensity, depth, and a sweet, effortless smokey result that other shapes can't achieve. ✨

✔️ The key: shadow must be "built" upward, not outward.
✔️ What does it mean? the beauty of the monolid look comes from vertical lift, not width.

1) The base that makes the difference

Without primer, shadows on monolids often disappear or get shiny. The right base:

  • ✔️ Primer in a thin layer (never thick)
  • ✔️ Matte shadow to set before blending
  • ✔️ Gentle beige/peach to make color "grip" better

2) The layered smokey

The monolid look shines through layers. Instead of applying one shadow intensely, work in 4 simple layers:

1. Transition
Soft brown — creates the first structure.
2. Mid-tone
Darker matte shadow in the center.
3. Depth
Very soft dark shadow in tap motions.
4. Top shimmer
Small amount in the center for brightness.

3) The right direction

Blending on monolid must go **vertically**:

  • ✔️ Movements are upward, not sideways
  • ✔️ Avoid round motions (give flat result)
  • ✔️ Matte textures for volume, shimmer only at the end

Tip: If you want a more "structured" eye, raise the shadow 3–4 mm above your natural point — this works as an artificial crease.

4) Eyeliner that doesn't hide

The classic wing often disappears. The solution:

  • ✔️ Thick wing at the edge, thin line in the center
  • ✔️ Smudge with black matte shadow for stability
  • ⚠️ Don't apply intense eyeliner on the mobile lid

With this vertical approach, monolid eyes gain beautiful volume and depth that stays visible all day. It's one of the shapes where once you "get" the technique, you never change it. ✔️✨

Deep-Set Eyes – How to illuminate and "bring forward" the gaze ✔️

Deep-set eyes sit further "in" the bone cavity, with a prominent brow bone that often shadows the lid. This makes them captivating — but requires special placement to open the gaze and bring volume forward. Here you'll see how to achieve it effortlessly. ✨

1) Light in the right spot

The biggest secret for deep-set eyes is that light must be placed further out — not under the brow bone. This point is already bright due to bone structure, so shimmer there makes the eye recede further in.

✔️ Do
  • Light in the center of the lid
  • Shimmer only low, not high
  • Light shade on the inner lid
⚠️ Avoid
  • Shimmer under the brow
  • Very dark shadow over large area
  • Downward movements in the crease

2) The right transition shade

On deep-set eyes we want to "break" the volume of the brow bone. This is done with a matte, soft shadow slightly above the natural crease:

  • ✔️ Beige/peach for natural smoothing
  • ✔️ Light buffing with fluffy brush
  • ✔️ Sideways movements — not upward

Pro Tip: If the brow bone is very prominent, add matte light brown on top to "erase" the shadow it creates.

3) Eyeliner that "brings forward" the eye

Here the opposite of hooded eyes applies: the wing must stay low, not high.

  • ✔️ Thin line, not thick
  • ✔️ Wing in slightly straight direction
  • ✔️ Weight in the center, not on the outer corner
  • ⚠️ Avoid filling the lower lash line

4) "Highlight & Pull" Technique

An excellent technique for those who want deep-set eyes to appear more "forward" is highlight & pull:

  • ✔️ Shimmer in the center → "pulls" the lid forward
  • ✔️ Mid-tone outward in a straight line
  • ✔️ Soft smoke on the lower 1/3 of the eye

With these techniques, deep-set eyes gain brightness, dimension, and a more balanced appearance without losing their dramatic, atmospheric character. ✔️✨

Technique Comparison by Eye Shape

Almond Eyes ✔️

Suit almost all looks. Ideal: Soft V, cut crease, thin eyeliner. Avoid: very intense dark shadow all over the lid.

Downturned Eyes ✨

Need upward placement. Ideal: Reverse wing, matte crease high. Avoid: shimmer on outer corner.

Hooded Eyes ✔️

Need artificial crease and clean structure. Ideal: Fake crease, half spotlight. Avoid: thick eyeliner on mobile lid.

Monolid & Deep-Set ⚠️

Need light in the right places and volume enhancement. Ideal: Vertical blending, shimmer in center. Avoid: very dark shadow all over lid.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. Which technique suits hooded eyes best?
The best technique is the fake crease. Place shadow slightly above the natural crease to create artificial depth without weighing down the lid.
2. What helps downturned eyes appear more lifted?
The reverse wing is ideal – it lifts the outer corner without exaggeration. Avoid shimmer low as it gives a downward effect.
3. How do I make round eyes appear more elongated?
Give intensity to the edges with matte shadow and keep the center more neutral. Eyeliner should thicken outward for an elongated result.
4. Which technique works best for monolid eyes?
Vertical blending – color is built upward, not outward. Matte bases, shimmer only in the center.
5. How do I properly illuminate deep-set eyes?
Place shimmer in the center of the lid and matte higher than the crease. Avoid intense highlighting under the brow – makes the eye recede further in.
6. Which technique works on all eye shapes?
The soft gradient in 3 tones: transition → mid-tone → depth. Gives a clean, balanced result on all eyes.

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Giannis – Owner of HairMania Greece and Founder of HairMaker.Gr

Giannis – Owner of HairMania Greece & Founder of HairMaker.Gr

Professional hairdresser with 25 years of experience in hairstyling & makeup grooming. Owner of HairMania Greece and founder of HairMaker.Gr.

Articles are based on real tests and client discussions.✔️

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Reviewed and edited by Giannis

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