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The Great Comparison: Oil-Based vs Water-Based ✨
Which pomade fits your lifestyle and style? Reuzel has the answer
In the world of men's grooming, few debates are as passionate as this one: grease or water-based pomade? It's like asking a petrolhead whether they prefer classic muscle cars or modern supercars — both choices have their devoted fans. Reuzel, with its Schorem heritage in Rotterdam, has answered this debate in the most elegant way: they created exceptional pomades in both categories ✨
In this guide, we'll analyze the philosophy behind each pomade type, explain their technical differences from a barber's perspective, and help you understand which category suits your hair type, lifestyle, and styling goals. Because at the end of the day, the right choice isn't about "better" — it's about what's right for you ⚠️
Grease vs Water-Based at a Glance
Oil-Based (Grease)
Never dries, allows restyle all day, classic shine. Requires special shampoo. Ideal for: pompadours, slick-backs, vintage looks.
Water-Based
Dries and "locks in", washes out easily, from shine to matte. Ideal for: everyday styling, textured looks, active lifestyle.
The Reuzel Philosophy: There's no "better" — there's what's right for you. Pink & Green = Oil-Based | Blue, Red, Fiber, Clay, Concrete, Extreme = Water-Based
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What is Oil-Based Pomade (Grease) ✨
Oil-based pomade — or "grease" as purists call it — is the original form of hair styling product. Its history dates back to the 1920s, when men used actual animal fat (lard) to tame their hair. The term "Reuzel" in Dutch means exactly that — lard — a tribute to the roots of traditional grooming.
Oil-Based Pomade Composition:
✔️ Beeswax: Provides hold and structure
✔️ Petrolatum/Mineral Oil: Offers shine and easy application
✔️ Lanolin: Moisturizes and protects the hair
✔️ Fragrances: The signature scents (vanilla wood, cola)
The unique characteristic of oil-based pomade is that it never dries. This means your hair stays "alive" all day — you can re-comb it, change the look, fix imperfections without needing more product. For the barbers at Schorem, this property is sacred: a gentleman should be able to maintain his appearance at any moment.
"Grease isn't just a product — it's a commitment to classic style. When you apply Pink Grease, you're declaring that you belong to a tradition that started a century ago."
Reuzel offers two oil-based pomades: Pink Grease (heavy hold) and Green Grease (medium hold). Both share the same DNA — beeswax base, never-dry formula, classic barbershop vibe — but with different hold intensity.
The trade-off? Oil-based pomade doesn't come out easily. You need special shampoo or techniques we'll discuss below. For some, this is a disadvantage — for true believers, it's a feature. The build-up that develops makes styling even easier the next day.
What is Water-Based Pomade ✔️
Water-based pomade is the modern evolution of classic styling products. It was developed to address the biggest "complaint" about oil-based: difficulty of removal. With water as its base instead of wax and oils, these pomades wash out easily with a simple shampoo — ideal for the modern, fast-paced lifestyle.
Water-Based Pomade Composition:
✔️ Water (aqua): The main base — allows easy wash-out
✔️ PVP/VA Copolymer: Creates hold without weight
✔️ Glycerin: Adds moisture and flexibility
✔️ Silicones (optional): For extra shine in some formulas
The big difference: water-based pomade dries and "locks" the look. This means once it dries, your hair stays in place without needing re-combing. For many, this is an advantage — set it and forget it. But it also means you can't easily change the look mid-day without water.
Reuzel's Water-Based Range:
Blue: Strong hold, high shine — for thick/stubborn hair
❤️ Red: Medium hold, high shine — all-rounder for everyone
⚪ Fiber: Pliable hold, low shine — textured looks
Clay Matte: Medium hold, zero shine — volume styles
⬛ Concrete Hold: Firm hold, matte — reworkable formula
⚡ Extreme Hold: Maximum control, matte — for long/unruly hair
Reuzel has invested heavily in the water-based category, offering six different options covering every finish (from high shine to dead matte) and every hold level (from pliable to extreme). This variety isn't accidental — it reflects the brand's belief that modern styling requires options.
For the everyday guy who wants to style his hair in the morning and forget about grooming until evening, water-based is the logical choice. Easy application, easy removal, consistent results.
Discover Reuzel ✨
Reuzel didn't pick a side in the grease vs water-based debate — they created exceptional products in both categories, allowing every man to find the perfect match for his own style.
Hold Comparison: Which Holds Better? ⚠️
The question "which pomade holds better" is more complex than it seems. Both categories can offer extreme hold — but in completely different ways. Let's analyze the mechanics of hold to understand what's really happening to your hair.
Oil-Based Hold
The hold comes from wax (beeswax) that "glues" hairs together. It doesn't dry, remains pliable.
Type: Flexible, reworkable
Duration: All-day with touch-ups
Feel: Slightly tacky
Water-Based Hold
The hold comes from polymers that harden as they dry. They create an invisible "film" around the hairs.
Type: Set, locked-in
Duration: All-day without touch-ups
Feel: Natural to crispy (depends on formula)
What This Means in Practice:
✔️ With oil-based, hair "falls" gradually during the day, but you can restore it with a comb
✔️ With water-based, hair stays in place until you wash it, but if the hold "breaks", it doesn't return without water
✔️ For extreme styles (high pompadours, gravity-defying quiffs), oil-based usually wins in raw holding power
An important factor is humidity. In humid environments, water-based tends to "fall" more easily because water in the air interacts with the polymers. Oil-based, on the other hand, is impervious to moisture — the oils and wax aren't affected by humidity.
Pro Insight: Barbers at Schorem often use Pink Grease for clients requesting pompadours. The reason? They can "fix" the styling even after hours, without needing to reapply product.
Shine vs Matte: The Aesthetic Dimension ✨
Beyond hold, the big difference between pomades is the finish — the final appearance of your hair. And here the debate gets even more interesting, because preferences are purely a matter of personal style.
Oil-Based: The Classic Shine
Oil-based pomades always offer some level of shine — it's unavoidable due to their composition. The oils reflect light, creating that wet-look reminiscent of the '50s greasers.
✔️ Pink Grease: Medium shine (not excessive)
✔️ Green Grease: Medium shine with tea tree freshness
Water-Based: From Wet Look to Dead Matte
This is where water-based wins in versatility. Depending on the formula, you can achieve anything — from super glossy to completely matte that looks like you have nothing in your hair.
✔️ Blue/Red: High shine, wet look
✔️ Fiber: Low shine, natural
✔️ Clay/Concrete/Extreme: Zero shine, matte finish
How to Choose Finish:
✔️ High Shine: Formal occasions, classic looks, slick styles → Blue, Red, or Green Grease
✔️ Medium Shine: Balanced, professional → Pink Grease or Fiber
✔️ Matte: Casual, textured, modern → Clay, Concrete, Extreme Hold
One thing to remember: shine changes throughout the day. Oil-based maintains consistent shine (or even increases it as natural scalp oils mix in). High-shine water-based tends to become more matte as it dries.
The modern trend is toward matte finishes — natural, textured looks that don't appear like you've "worked" your hair. That's why Reuzel has four matte products in the water-based range, while none in oil-based. If you want matte, you automatically go water-based.
Which Suits Your Hair Type? ✔️
Hair type plays a crucial role in choosing between oil-based and water-based. Some hair types "cooperate" better with grease, others with water-based formulas. Let's see what works best for each case.
Fine/Thin Hair
Best choice: Water-Based (Fiber, Clay, Red)
Fine hair weighs down easily. Oil-based pomade can make it flat and greasy-looking. Water-based, especially lightweight formulas like Fiber and Clay, give volume without weight.
Thick/Coarse Hair
Best choice: Oil-Based (Pink Grease) or Water-Based (Blue, Extreme Hold)
Thick hair needs serious hold. Pink Grease is ideal if you want reworkability. If you prefer set-and-forget, Blue or Extreme Hold do the job.
Curly/Wavy Hair
Best choice: Oil-Based (Green Grease) or Water-Based (Blue)
Curly hair needs moisture to avoid frizz. Green Grease (with tea tree) offers hydration + control. If you want water-based, Blue has a no-dry formula that maintains moisture.
Normal Hair
Best choice: Anything! You have the most freedom
If you have normal hair texture and density, you can choose based purely on preference. Grease for classic vibes and reworkability, water-based for convenience and matte options.
⚠️ Important: If you have an oily scalp, oil-based may worsen the problem. Prefer water-based that doesn't add extra oils.
Wash-Out: The Big Difference ⚠️
Here lies perhaps the most practical difference between the two categories. How the pomade is removed largely determines whether you'll incorporate it into your daily routine or make it an occasional treat.
Water-Based Removal
A regular shampoo is enough. Wet, lather, rinse — done. Even without shampoo, water alone removes a significant amount.
Time: 2-3 minutes
Difficulty: ⭐ (Easy)
Oil-Based Removal
Water alone does nothing — oil and water don't mix. You need special techniques or heavy-duty shampoo.
Time: 10-15 minutes
Difficulty: ⭐⭐⭐ (Challenging)
Oil-Based Pomade Removal Techniques:
✔️ Method 1 - Degreasing Shampoo: Use pomade-specific or clarifying shampoo on DRY hair first, then rinse
✔️ Method 2 - Dish Soap: Dawn or Fairy (yes, for dishes) — works perfectly but dries out hair
✔️ Method 3 - Oil Method: Apply coconut/olive oil, massage, then double shampoo — the gentlest option
✔️ Method 4 - Re-Grease: Don't remove anything! Leave build-up for easier styling the next day (old-school technique)
The Re-Grease Philosophy: Many pomade enthusiasts don't completely remove the grease. They leave a layer that acts as a "base" — styling becomes easier and requires less product. Deep cleanse only 1-2 times per week.
Reuzel Pomades Collection ✨
Whether you prefer the authenticity of grease or the practicality of water-based, Reuzel has the pomade that will change your grooming game.
Lifestyle Fit: Which Suits Your Life? ✨
Choosing a pomade isn't just about hair type — it's about lifestyle. The way you live, work, and spend your time determines which category will serve you best in daily life.
Active Lifestyle / Gym
Recommended: Water-Based
If you work out frequently, daily shampooing is a must. Oil-based requires effort to remove — water-based washes out in the shower after your workout without drama.
Corporate Environment
Recommended: Both — depends on the look
For polished, professional slick-backs, Green Grease or Blue work perfectly. For more modern, textured looks, matte water-based (Clay, Fiber) are ideal.
Classic/Vintage Enthusiast
Recommended: Oil-Based (exclusively)
If you love the rockabilly aesthetic, vintage cars, old music — grease is part of the package. It's not just a product, it's a statement.
⏰ Minimal Time for Grooming
Recommended: Water-Based
If you want a 5-minute morning routine without complicated wash-out procedures, water-based is the only logical choice. Apply, style, go.
Reality Check: Most modern guys end up with water-based for daily use, keeping a tin of grease for special occasions or weekend styling sessions. Reuzel knows this — that's why they offer options in both categories.
The Final Verdict: Which Should I Choose? ✔️
After all this analysis, let's answer the question that brought you here: grease or water-based? The answer, as usual in grooming, is "it depends". But we can make it more specific.
Choose Oil-Based (Grease) if:
✔️ You want to restyle your hair all day
✔️ You do extreme styles (high pompadours, gravity-defying quiffs)
✔️ You love the vintage/classic aesthetic
✔️ You have thick/coarse hair that needs serious control
✔️ You don't mind the extra effort in wash-out
? Choose Water-Based if:
✔️ You want set-it-and-forget-it styling
✔️ You prefer matte/natural finishes
✔️ You have an active lifestyle with frequent showers
✔️ You have fine hair that weighs down easily
✔️ You want a quick, easy grooming routine
The Reuzel Philosophy: There's no "right" or "wrong" — only what's suitable for you. That's why the brand created exceptional products in both categories. Leen and Bertus at Schorem use both, depending on the client and the look.
The real answer? Try both. Buy a tin of Pink Grease and a Blue (or Fiber if you prefer matte). Use them on different occasions. After a few weeks, you'll know exactly which category suits you. And maybe, like many pomade enthusiasts, you'll end up loving both — for different reasons.
Frequently Asked Questions ✨
Can I mix oil-based with water-based pomade?
Technically yes, but it's not recommended. The two types have different chemistry — mixing can give inconsistent results. If you want custom hold, it's better to "cocktail" within the same category (e.g., Pink + Green Grease).
Which pomade is better for my hair long-term?
Neither harms hair when used correctly. Oil-based may offer some conditioning benefits due to the oils. Water-based is more "neutral". The important thing is proper cleansing to avoid build-up.
What is the "no-dry" formula in water-based?
Some water-based (like Reuzel Blue) have a "no-dry" formula — meaning they don't harden completely. They remain slightly pliable, offering some restyle capability without the full commitment of grease.
How often should I completely remove oil-based?
It depends on your scalp type. Normally, 1-2 deep cleanses per week are enough. If you have an oily scalp or feel buildup, increase the frequency. Many old-school users do a full wash only once a week.
Why doesn't Reuzel have a matte oil-based pomade?
It's a matter of chemistry. The ingredients that give oil-based its characteristics (beeswax, oils) naturally provide some shine. To achieve a true matte finish, you need a water-based formula with clay or matte powders.
What's the difference between Pink vs Green Grease?
Pink is heavy-duty (strong hold) for thick/stubborn hair and extreme styles. Green is medium hold, lighter, with tea tree oil that helps with breakdown. For grease beginners, Green is a better starting point.
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Giannis – Owner of HairMania Greece & Founder of HairMaker.Gr
Professional barber with 25 years of experience in hair and beard care. Owner of HairMania Greece and founder of HairMaker.Gr.
Together with the HairMaker.Gr team, I publish articles based on real testing, customer feedback and barbershop experience.
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Edited and reviewed by Giannis
Edited and reviewed by Giannis
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